Single rotor conversion

No bike comes out of the factory completely perfect and that’s just fine because perfect is different per person.
The T7 is a pretty good base but you know i did a lot to it and that was not all, in a matter of fact another upgrade is already on-route. That upgrade is a 2,5″ rim to be able to run a 140 rear tyre. It was not planned until the OEM got damaged but since i entered a rally it is just the best choice to do it now… actually not now but with the next tyre change.

Upgrades i did where partially performance (suspension, exhaust, Rapid bike module) or protection (also exhaust and even the main reason, crash bars, Bark busters…).
Often upgrading means adding stuff like the crashbars and Barkbusters and adding stuff means adding weight and that is going against the performance part of upgrading.
I already did some things to compensate that growth in weight like the exhaust, mail reason was protection of the swingarm and OEM mounting point but it also came with a little power and less weight (2,4kg). Another loss of weight was the removal of the charcoal cannister.
The single rotor and rear rim conversion are also weight loss items and they count double as they are so called unsprung weight losses, weight loss below the suspension.
For the rear rim it’s one of 2 reasons because the 140 tyre size just works much better offroad and next to the lower weight of the rim the tyre is also lighter so it keeps adding postpositively (or better said losing).
Main reason i do it now because of the rally is that i only can choose one non enduro tyre with the OEM 150 and have multiple choices in the 140 size between 1 non enduro and 2 enduro tyres.

Now to the point with the single rotor conversion.
Te kit:

Off course it’s not just removing one rotor and caliper, you also need a new disc but because of shipment and import costs it was a whole lost cheaper to buy one here with my local parts supplier. The OEM rotors are 282mm each and i now need a 320mm rotor from a ’04 to ’07 Yamaha R1 which has the same hole pattern and offset.
I will spare you the bike washing pictures because it’s the same as always and again mostly only because i have work to do but i do have some pictures from the state of the components that admittedly had a lack of maintenance because i had this coming.

The black spots on the rear after cleaning are from riding salty roads but it will be covered in mud soon enough (actually the next day). The front right will not go back on and like this it’s a nice comparison between a neglected and cleaned one plus the difference in the mounting brackets.

Now straight to the numbers, the work part is not very interesting and a lot is the same like many work on the bike like the fairing and tank that has to be removed and wheels just like when changing a tyre.
Like i said, main reason for this change is weight loss with the unsprung part as bonus but an important bonus.

The total loss of weight is 2842 grams from which 569 grams only in removed hose and hard lines needed for the rear to the ABS pump and back. Front new rotor and adapter is 1123 grams lighter as the 2 OEM but add the right caliper and the hard line that connected the left to the right you get to 2008 grams which is the sum of the unsprung weight loss.
Just over 2 KG (almost 4,5lbs).
2 KG on a bike that weighs 200kg seems nothing but this as unsprung weight is massive and it really is very noticeable.
The difference between the new front hoses and the old with the right caliper is 1150 grams but that was a stupid combination i now just used to calculate the total weight loss but when i did that maths i realised id didn’t gave me the unsprung weight results, that’s why i went back to the garage to weigh the old rotors with the right caliper and hard line.

The numbers in short:
2842 grams total (6,27lbs) from which unsprung is 2008 grams (4,43lbs).
This is the Stoltec single rotor conversion kit with rear ABS delete as shown in the first picture in this blog. You can by a Galfer rotor with that kit but for me as a Dutch citizen it was a huge difference in price and getting a rotor from here makes it also easier to get a new one when needed as a rotor is a wear part and i choose for the EBC Vee Rotor which needed a tittle work with a Dremel tool to make it work with the ABS ring (you can see the cut outs at the ABS ring bolts)

At last some pictures from the results.

At last i want too thank Nick from Stoltec Moto who answered my questions quick and was very helpful to try to get the kit as cheap as possible to my doorstep as shipping costs from the US are ridiculous. The first reaction was not fast but that was not his fault, my mail found it’s way into the spam folder but he also is active on the T700 forum board where i could contact him and how he discovered the mishap.
The link to this kit is

7 Replies to “Single rotor conversion”

  1. Prachtig Ray, voor mij is dit echt ACACADABRA haha, ik snap er niks van maar dat komt ook omdat ik er niks “mee” heb, dat weet je.
    Ik vind het mooi dat jij er met zoveel lol over kunt vertellen maar ik zie liever avonturen ;-).

    1. Ik ben ook liever op avontuur maar ik moet helaas vooral werken om die avonturen te bekostigen.
      Gelukkig kan ik alles zelf waardoor ik me in de tussentijd bezig kan houden en ook de upgrades mogelijk maak omdat ik het geld niet kwijt ben aan dure monteurs en het geld al aan standaard onderhoud kwijt ben.

    1. On one finger it lacks a bit but with 2 fingers you can brake hard enough, even on tarmac.
      It would be too much of a trial and error with added costs to buy different masters to go in to that at this moment.

    1. Thats Correct Ernst, ABS rear is capped off at the pump and there is only a brake hose from the master cylinder to the caliper.
      Front is still working and can be switched off in the rare situation you need the front to be able to lock up.

  2. Net als Peter heb ik nul komma niks met techniek, maar ik snap je enthousiasme. En nu weer gauw de al dan niet verharde weg op!

    Cheers. Ron

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