ScanBaltic 2022 episode 5, Reaching the North Cape

This time we cover a couple of days because the rain caught me after all and there was less filming due to that.
I was almost halve way of the next day before i finally found the camp spot so let’s see where the first day gets me.
The day started good, i forget to turn on the headset and missed the first turn and the nice tracks i found lead nowhere so i had to turn around.
It started grey but dry and that would not last long, the GoPro was taken down and the rain gear put on.
I got off the main road here and there to take the nicer small roads. Like the whole trip great views but now it was more open space with hills instead of mountains.
Near the end of this days ride i reached the Arctic Circle.

I made the same mistake as yesterday by starting too late with looking for a campsite, if you can call it a mistake. After all how should i know what’s coming or better said what’s not coming.
This time i also bought food at some supermarket and the search was on. The first spot was taken, the second also and i don’t like sharing a wild camp and certainly not with a camper. Then i saw some track into the woods but it faded soon without a suitable surface for a tent. I didn’t want to risk anything so i turned around.
I already passed a place where they had cabins but too expensive.
One more possibility bud sadly the flat surface was on a slope and nothing else to do than just keep going until i found something.
There where little side roads and it was most likely that the whole area looked the same, no logic in getting off track and out of the way.
Luckily it didn’t took as long this time to get to a campsite. It was badly managed and a lot of people parked their cars on the campground without being told it was not allowed, cars should be in the parking lot.
Because of this there was no place other than a little spot behind the reception. I was afraid i wouldn’t find another place so i negotiated a small price for that spot.
It started raining again… not that it really ended… and that’s the one and also biggest drawback of a small tent. Cooking is a challenge.

Next day, new challenge!
Goal for today is to get on the ferry from Bodø to Moskenes and the reason this is a challenge is because it might be the same as in Lyssebotn.
The ride was okay but after the fjords and glacier not spectacular and the only thing worth mentioning is my first reindeer encounter.

At one point i thought there was a mistake in the track, it went left to come back so i just went right. Not long after that i remembered i did that to go see the biggest current in Europe but with this weather it seemed not worth turning around and i’d rather get at the ferry a bit sooner to see if i could get on.

There where some other bikers, a German guy who couldn’t get on the previous ferry waiting if he could get on the next and a Swiss guy name Mirko whit whom i spend the wait and the time on the ferry.

This also answered the question if i made it on to the ferry.
After the ferry ride we went out own way but had some Whatsapp contact since then.

Off the ferry i first took a left turn off track to go see the town with the shortest name en then back to continue the ride with again an unknown ending place.
The end turned out at a campsite with lot’s of space and i found spot where i could use a tarp as extra cover and a place to sit in my chair.
I didn’t spent much of it because a German couple invited me in their cabin for a beer and a dry warm place, that are things that happen when you travel alone and why i like to travel this way.

The next day i planned a detour to Andenes to take the ferry to Gryllefjord on the island Senja. That was a tip from my first meeting in Norway and since i have time enough i wanted to follow up on it.
The weather however was still/again bad and the visibility was so poor it didn’t made sense to spent time and money on a detour when everything is shrouded in clouds, mist and rain so i stayed on the original route.

From the Lofoten islands it was mountainous again, only sad it kept raining and halve way to Alta it was the first time in days i spotted a little sun on the Kvænangsfjellet.

The sun was just around the corner, you get to see it in the video.
This time i found a wild camp spot in iOverlander but here i first encountered the Mosquitoes everybody was talking about. I planned on buying the good stuff in Norway but didn’t get to it before the first night and also didn’t see any just like the nights after that so never thought about it again until now.
Moved on to a campsite near Bognelv with more open space, they still where there but manageable. The next day i bought some repellent.

It was also dry enough to wash my base layer and hang t to dry but in the night i had to get out to get it just in time as it started to rain again.

Next on the list is the turning point, North Cape.
I knew it would be a long boring ride from Alta so there is not much to tell about the trip, boring and rainy.

The first picture is taken at the crossroads where left is a road to actually nowhere. Yes it goes to the North Cape but not further so you have to ride 128km which is about 2 hours and then you have to come back.
From my Camp to this point it was 175km, then 128 and back plus another 90km to the next campsite.
The North Cape is pure robbery, the parking is free and there is also a toilet but if you want a coffee and/or a snack you have to buy a ticket to the main building where also the museum is situated. Entrance fee is about €31 so if you just want a coffee and maybe a sandwich just like me it will be a very expensive lunch as the cost of that lunch will be added to that.
That was just too much so i walked up to the monuments for some pictures taken by a friendly Dutch couple (yes, the Dutch are everywhere) without even taking off my helmet and turned around.
Initially i wasn’t even thinking of going to the North Cape and this anticlimax was a real bummer but i’ve been to the South Cape (Cape of good hope) so it’s not a regret.
I could have just turned right in Olderfjord but even if i knew that it turned out this way i would have regretted it if i skipped it being this close just because it is actually just plain stupid to go if you don’t see anything at all.
For me getting somewhere is more the goal than being there, a lot of times i go to a place just to take a picture and leave again.
At the end of this day in Skoganvarre i chose a cabin and treated myself with a beer at €9,80 for a 0,5ltr can…. and i thought €2,20 for 0,33cl in the supermarket was expensive.
Next episode will be also the next country as it is just a 50 minute ride to the border with Finland.
Until the next ride….

3 Replies to “ScanBaltic 2022 episode 5, Reaching the North Cape”

  1. Thanks for sharing this episode from your adventure Ray. My memory of the gorgeous Lofoten islands is quite contrary to yours, thanks to many really sunny days. ‘Weather permitting’ is by no means an empty notion… Looking forward to episode # 6 🏍️

  2. Can’t control the weather and also can’t be ready for a trip alle the time and then say to the boss “i’m gone for 3 weeks, the weather is good now where i want to go” 😂

  3. Jammer van het slechte weer maar je maakt er ondanks dat toch een hele mooie reportage van, netjes Ray.
    Respect, groet Peter

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